Mt. Pethangtse Expedition (6738m.)

Mt. Pethangtse Expedition (6738m.)

Mt. Pethangtse Expedition (6738m.)

On the border of Nepal and Tibet, half way between the summits of Mount Everest and Makalu, a climb to the Pethangtse summit is a uniquely powerful Himalayan mountaineering experience. The proximity to the world’s highest mountains is unequalled anywhere, with three of the five highest and Tibet as your immediate neighbours.  The Kangshung Face of Everest, the north faces of Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Peak 38 and Shartse are beside you.

An expedition to Pethangtse takes you into a remote and seldom visited region of the Himalaya. The distances and remoteness discourage all but the most stalwart but the climb itself is within reach of moderately experienced mountaineers. You will need safe glacier travel techniques and the ability to use ascenders/descenders on fixed ropes. Snow and ice slopes average 40-55%.

The route offers many outstanding options. The standard approach is through Makalu Basecamp. Teams could trek out this way if desired. But it is also possible to combine a Pethangtse expedition with a climb of Mera, a climb of Baruntse, or a crossing of the Three Ice Cols (East Col, West Col, Amphulapcha). All of these are within reach from the remote Upper Hongku Valley, separated from Pethangtse and the Barun Glacier by the East and West Cols.  These options add tremendous trekking variety and cultural richness to the expedition. The distances and elevation gains on approach provide excellent opportunities to become acclimatized to the altitude.

“Here is a blog from the High Hope Pethangtse Expedition in 2009 supported by Adventure Thamserku”

  • Day 01 Arrival Kathmandu (1360m) & Transfer to Hotel
  • Day 02 Kathmandu ; climbing preparations and city tour
  • Day 03 Kathmandu ; obtain permit and preparation
  • Day 04 Fly to Tumlingtar and drive to Chichila (1800m)
  • Day 05 Trek to Num (1500m)
  • Day 06 Trek to Seduwa (1493m)
  • Day 07 Trek to Tashi Gaon (2200m)
  • Day 08 Trek to Kauma Kharka (3470m)
  • Day 09 Rest & acclimatization at Kauma Kharka
  • Day 10 Trek to Mumbuk (3570m)
  • Day 11 Trek to Yakle Kharka (3670m)
  • Day 12 Trek to Sherson (4600m)
  • Day 13 Rest day at Sherson
  • Day 14 Trek to Makalu Base Camp (4800m)
  • Day 15 Rest day at Makalu Base Camp
  • Day 16 Trek to Pethangtse Base Camp (5300m)
  • Day 1718 Acclimatize & Preparation at Pethangtse Base Camp
  • Day 19 Trek to Pethangtse interim Camp (5600m)
  • Day 20 Pethangtse High Camp (5900m)
  • Day 21 Pethangtse Summit (6738m) and back to BC
  • Day 22-23 Buffer day
  • Day 24 Trek to Baruntse East BC (5250m) (Above Hillary Base Camp/below East Col)
  • Day 25 Trek to Baruntse BC (5500m) (after crossing East col)
  • Day 26 Trek to Baruntse West Base Camp (5550)
  • Day 27 Rest day at Baruntse West Base Camp
  • Day 28 Trek to Panch Pokhari (5445m)
  • Day 29 Cross Amphu Laptsa and camp at Amphu Laptsa Tsho (4985)
  • Day 30 Trek to Chukhung ( 4734m)
  • Day 31 Trek to Thyangboche (3985m)
  • Day 32 Trek to Monjo (2835m)
  • Day 33 Trek to Lukla (2827m)
  • Day 34 Fly back to Kathmandu
  • Day 35 Kathmandu
  • Day 36 Fly back to Home


  •  Peak royalty, national park fees and govt. taxes.
  •  5 (five) nights hotel in Kathmandu on BB basis.
  •  Domestic airfares and domestic airport tax.
  •  Domestic cargo & excess baggage.
  •  Liaison officer fee.
  •  One head Sardar/Guide.
  •  Cook(s) and necessary kitchen staff.
  •  Required number of porter.
  •  All necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes.
  •  High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One climbing Sherpa per two clients).
  •  All food including available high altitude food for both trek and climb.
  •  Hot drinks (tea, Coffee, chocolate, Juice etc)
  •  All necessary camping and kitchen gears for both trek and climb.
  •  Necessary tent at BC (kitchen, toilet, dinning etc)
  •  Best quality high altitude tents.
  •  Solar panel for recharging & power supply purpose.
  •  Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose only.
  •  Portable Altitude Chamber for the medical propose
  •  Comprehensive medical kit .
  •  Satellite phone for emergency purpose.
  •  EPI gas with burner.
  •  Sleeping bag & down jackets on request.
  •  Insurance of climbing Sherpa, local team members. and Liaison officer.
  •  Arrangement of necessary official documents.
  •  All airport/hotel transfers.


  •  Visa Costs
  •  Medical and personal high risk insurance
  •  Major meals in Kathmandu.
  •  Personal climbing gears.
  •  Cost of personal nature.
  •  Cost of electronic appliances.
  •  Cost of emergency evacuation
  •  Tips
  •  International flights & departure taxes
  • Oct. 1, 8


  • Apr. 7, 14
  • Oct. 6


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